Normal monsoon in Kozhikode (Calicut) is at 3 PM. I’m at Zain Restaurant, a popular establishment in a city where you meet almost everyone who is a foodie. I’m not the only one standing in line to taste one of Zain’s distinctive dishes. It was once a house in one of the many narrow streets of Kozhikode. It was converted into a restaurant by a couple who not only love food but also have a passion for showcasing Moplah culinary traditions. Zainbi Noor is one of the most famous restaurants in the city, she founded Zain Hotel with her husband Noor Mohammed.
The foodscape of Kozhikode has the unmistakable stamp of Mapalia (Mopla); The fusion of Arab and Kerala culture has left a huge impact on every aspect of this community, including its mythological cuisine. Kozhikode (or Calicut) had long been a focal point along the legendary Spice Route where Vasco da Gama’s Indian adventure began centuries ago. The city’s wholesale market is no longer just a trade in spices; It is dominated by the traders of pulses and rice today. I also recommend a visit to Kozhikode’s Fish Market. Perhaps this is where Zain sources the main ingredient for his prized afternoon snack – Arikadukka.
(Also read: 5 Non-Veg Dishes That Will Make You Fall In Love With Kerala’s Malabari Cuisine,
A week after my trip to Kozhikode, I had lunch with Chef Reggie Mathew, who runs Kappa Chakka Kandhari, a popular Kerala restaurant chain, at his Bengaluru restaurant in Koramangala. Most of the conversation centered around my second meal trail around Kozhikode and my latest discovery. Arikadukka is an answer Kerala Speciality; The dish is prepared with mussels, which are stuffed with a finely spiced rice mixture, steamed in its shell and then fried.
The fresh batch of arikadukka at Zain was finally served after 3 pm and I almost burned my fingers when I opened the shells and got lost in the aroma emanating from the restaurant. The perfect comfort food as I watched the rain patter. According to Regi (see recipe), the rice absorbs the flavor of the mussels while steaming and further enhances it while frying, all with minimal marination. They reminisced about enjoying this breakfast as they walked along Kozhikode Beach. I will save this for my next trip to Kozhikode.
Arikadukka (stuffed mussels)
Recipe courtesy – Chef Reggie Matthews,
Culinary Director and Co-Owner Kappa Chakka Kandhari
material
- Green mussels – 15 nos.
- Boiled rice – 1 cup
- tight Coconut – 3/4 cup
- Cumin – 1/2 tsp
- Fennel – 1 tsp
- Shallot (Cleaned) – 10 Nos.
- sea salt to taste
- Curry leaves – 10 nos.
- coconut oil for frying
for seasoning
- Chili Powder – 2 tsp
- Turmeric Powder – 1/2 tsp
- Garlic peeled – 4 cloves
- Fennel powder – 3/4 tsp
- Salt – 1/2 tsp
recipe
- Soak the rice in hot water for 5 hours.
- clean mussels In running cold water and remove all impurities. sieve and cut open
- Wash the rice and drain the water. Add grated coconut, cumin, fennel, peeled and salt and grind the rice coarsely.
- Add chopped curry leaves.
- Knead a paste-like dough by adding water to the mixture.
- Take the peeled chopped mussels and fill the rice mixture in it and close the shell halfway. Similarly fill all the muscles.
- Steam the mussels until they are cooked [it should take approximately 20-25 minutes]
- Remove the mussels from the steamer and let them cool completely. This is how it can be served.
- The most popular version of arikadukka is the one that is fried, with the steamed mussels peeled off.
- Kashmiri chili powder, a paste with turmeric, garlic pasteSea salt and fennel powder is made from 1 tbsp of water.
- Heat coconut oil in a pan, marinate with spices and deep fry each of the stuffed mussels. Fry till golden brown and serve hot.
About Ashwin RajagopalanI’m Cosmic Slash – a content architect, author, speaker and cultural intelligence coach. School lunch boxes are usually the beginning of our culinary discoveries. That curiosity hasn’t waned. It has only gotten stronger as I have discovered culinary cultures, street food and fine dining restaurants around the world. I have discovered cultures and destinations through cooking. I am equally fond of writing on consumer tech and travel.