Crack the shell with teeth, tear with fingers, sieve meat before putting it in mouth
One of the popular dishes on the dinner table during our childhood days was crab masala. We did not go to the fish market to buy crabs, but crabs came to us. A crab-monger whose name I can’t remember comes once a week with his fresh catch, encased in two baskets of bamboo dangling at either end of a tall wooden pole. He will announce his arrival by shouting “Nantu, Amma, Nantu(Crab, Mother, crab) in Tamil.
We were among a handful of residents of the area who were fond of crab meat. Family elders swear by its surprising health benefits, including protection against heart disease, aiding in brain development, improving general health and preventing various chronic conditions. These nutritious crustaceans are among the most commonly harvested seafood, prized for their sweet, tender flesh.
There are different species of crabs, but the ones we liked were mud crabs, which have black or brown backs. Most of the Indian chefs also prefer this type of conch. Although often found in freshwater, crabs are also regularly harvested where the river meets the sea. The time around high or low tide is the best time to catch crabs.
The crab-monger would sit in front of us, picking up the crabs clinging to each other or the inside of the basket, before destroying them with extraordinary cunning. My brothers and I, in fear, kept our distance from the scary creatures, but watched in amazement as the seller proceeded to remove the legs and claws and other difficult-looking items. Then he would pull and discard the triangular flap from the side of the abdomen.
He had telltale marks and scratches on his hands and feet, indicating the dangers of his profession. Sometimes the seller resorted to tantrums by picking up a crab and pretending to throw it at us, making us panic like frightened rats. The crab-monger, a regular visitor to our house, was also able to strike up a good conversation. But, on the other hand, invertebrates with their tongs, hard shells and small eyes, whose vision is 360 degrees, make them look like creatures from outer space.
My mother had a knack for rustling delicious dishes, and crab masala or soup no less. She had learned the nuances from her mother, who was herself a capable cook. So as soon as Mother started preparing the dish, the spicy crab-spice aroma would permeate the rooms, hit the nostrils and make our mouth water. We’ll be waiting eagerly to lay our tongues on the soft, delicious offering. The steamy cup of crab soup garnished with spices tasted wonderful and the cockles were hot.
Unlike today’s generation, which struggles with forks, knives, pliers and spoons to prize meat, we take pleasure in eating with our hands. We used to crack the shells with our teeth, tear them with our fingers, remove the meat before putting it in our mouths. It was a messy business, but something of an art. The masala and the taste of meat will remain for a long time after our meal. I’ve feasted on crab dishes elsewhere, but sadly, none come close to a homemade dish. If only! Thanks to the intricacies of cooking crab meat in the traditional way, rarely do modern housewives demonstrate patience in preparing this dish.