Entwined at Apparao Galleries
Velvet brown roots have taken over a corner of Apparao Galleries in Chennai. They go up to the ceiling, spreading across the air conditioning unit until a single finger snakes out, curling around a pillar. Rakhi Peswani’s creation of metal encased in velvet is earthy, and reminiscent of a fungi that grows despite its environment.
Rakhi Peswani’s installation
“To me, it stands for expanding your horizons,” says Sharan Apparao, who has displayed Haryana-based Peswani’s creation as part of Entwined, a curation of contemporary artworks from around 40 artists that use textile as both medium and narrative — to explore the relation they have with the human body and the Earth. “We have seen a revival in the interest in textiles around the world,” adds the gallerist. “Today, there is a huge repertoire of not just traditional artisans, but also artists interpreting traditional textiles. [It is] this aspect that spoke to me.”
An exhibit at Entwined
Form meets design
Entwined is divided into three categories, the first of which features artworks that use textiles either as medium or as the theme in their narrative. For instance, in her set of paintings, Kochi-based Sooraja K.S. highlights two kinds of ‘fibres’: the long hair that women wear proudly, and their clothes. The two often merge into one another with clothes pins holding up the hair and plaits emerging from a pile of clothes, exploring both mental and the physical.
One of Sooraja K.S.’s paintings
A ‘female armour’ by Mumbai-based artist Shakuntala Kulkarni catches the eye. Part of the second category — which plays with form, emphasising the relationship between the human body and textiles — it is crafted from cane.
Shakuntala Kulkarni’s armour
The final segment delves into the world of fashion, highlighting the works of designers that may not traditionally fall under the realm of art, but is creative nonetheless. “Finding contemporary artists who work with textile was not the challenge; identifying designers who are also artists was the bigger task,” says Apparao.
The final segment delves into the world of fashion, highlighting the works of designers that may not traditionally fall under the realm of art, but is creative nonetheless. “Finding contemporary artists who work with textile was not the challenge; identifying designers who are also artists was the bigger task,” says Apparao.
Smriti Dixit’s works are a study in contrast. A bright red and orange coat that meshes khadi and Manchester cotton, is a commentary on how exports from steam-powered textile mills in the U.K. hampered the development of Indian khadi factories. Her other work, which resembles a royal cape, is made of fishing net and the plastic waste that comes with modern clothing. — from brassiere hooks to price tags. “It took me three months to knit them together. We are using a slow fashion technique to talk about fast fashion,” says Dixit.
Smriti Dixit’s red and orange coat
The cape made of fishing net and plastic waste
Does this speak to a trend of increased collaborations between artists and the fashion industry? “Collaborations between designers and artists do happen, but they are still rare,” says Apparao, adding that the lines are blurring as “artists and designers influence each other”.
Heading to Delhi
At the India Art Fair, Apparao Galleries will be working with the idea of the cosmos and what lies beyond it — with works by artists such as Bengaluru-based A. Balasubramaniam, with his geometric forms; and Chennai-based R.M. Palaniappan’s study of the abstract journey of the line. “In the past few editions, I have explored the idea of mixing maths, geometry and aesthetics. This takes the idea further,” says Apparao.
Entwined is on till March 20.
The writer is based in Chennai.