Maximalist, with a high level of fun and customization – that’s what brides today are looking for. As India Couture Week winds up, couturiers weigh in on post-pandemic beauty
Two weeks ago, stylist Rhea Kapoor tied the knot in an ivory Anamika Khanna Chanderi sari with a vintage pearl veil from Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas. For the intimate ceremony held in her living room, she paired the muted dress with a clear winged eyeliner and jewelery from her mom’s collection, balancing her bohemian and traditional sides. What got me curious about how, after a long wait, post-pandemic brides are getting ready for their big day. Do they keep it low key? Or are they injecting some fun into the sadness and growing up? When I ask Khanna, who is gearing up for her digital showcase at the ongoing India Couture Week (ICW), she tells that there is an interesting bridal dichotomy.
“A section of brides have simplified everything for themselves and their families, and have accepted the fact that the world has changed. For example, Rhea wanted to go with ivory Mulmul And I respect that,” she explains The Hindu Weekend. “But then there’s a category that isn’t impressed and still wants to be the bride of the dreams.”
As I look at the creations displayed at ICW, I notice that many designers – many coming out of lockdown and facing a new festive season – are gravitating towards the latter, thereby flagging their creative eccentricities. Lets fly high. Couturier Manish Malhotra tried to capture that sentiment in his opening show. “Brides are very emotional, but they also want to have fun. I have tried to express these sentiments in my bridal edit ‘Nooraniat’ featuring actor Kriti Sanon [in an ornate lehenga with statement-making zardozi embroidery]says Malhotra, who also made sure she checked the inclusive boxes by including plus-size models and bringing in former supermodel Neonika Chatterjee in an ‘age-less’ style. (At their store, plus sizing is addressed through customization of each outfit.)
The designer is wearing bridal wear in Jaipur, Mumbai and Delhi, and calls the woman of 2021 a ‘gorgeous bride’. “Today’s bride wants to go out; She is living the moment, even when she is with 50 people. And she wants a mix of tradition and modernity: like a pretty veil and a little dazzle for her Concert and welcome. ”
adaptation to win
Interestingly, the preferences seem to be leaning towards an increased level of adaptation. Brides are also bringing stylists for trousseau shopping. “Is this lehenga Skirts look good on me? Do I need a gown with a long floor-sweeping trail? I see post-pandemic brides getting very specific about their bespoke needs,” says designer Shane Peacock, commenting that “most brides who contact us have a stylist with them.” , which helps them to make that personal choice.
stylists speak
- Wedding stylist Aastha Sharma, who recently worked with a bride in Lake Como for a one-day wedding at Silver Falguni Shane Peacock Creations, underscores the spirit of revenge shopping. “The bride wants something fun, lavish and exclusive, and doesn’t want to take anything off the rack as this is the last season and the designers were unable to create anything new due to the pandemic. Also, during the lockdown, fashion freedom was restricted and hence she wants to go out now,” she says.
- Also, in terms of color palette, many people are moving towards shades like aubergine. Wedding stylist Sreeja Rajagopal recently dressed one of her clients for a South Indian wedding in a brinjal colored raw mango sari. “Brides are warming up to new colors and they want the outfit to do all the talking and keep the rest of the makeup and jewelery to a minimum. Sustainability is also at the heart of shopping, as they want to invest in pieces with re-styling ability—be it a lehenga Or a pantsuit,” she says.
Last season, the duo of Falguni and Shane had a series of stylists depicting backstage drama in their fashion digital showcase, this season, they have centered their ‘More is More’. “In addition to our signature FSP Silvers, Golds, and Pinks, we’ve brightened up the gloomy mood a bit by including pop colors like bubblegum, rosy red and turquoise,” he says.
Revenge spending is definitely on the rise. Though the designers have not revealed any numbers in India, many of their international stores and pop-ups are fully booked as of late, according to news reports. Monica Shah, Co-Founder of Jade Brand by Monica and Karishma Revealed Mint Lounge That when she launched in Los Angeles in April, she only had “about 40 bridal appointments” over the opening weekend, while Anita Dongre shared that appointments at her New York store have been full since March. And now, with destination weddings starting up again, people are shopping with a vengeance. Designers Pankaj and Nidhi – who debuted their couture last season with an edited take on evening glamor – are focusing on wearability and weightlessness, keeping in mind traveling brides. “We have an extra lehenga The panel is coming into play, which can be swiftly fleshed out for last minute wear requests,” says Pankaj. “In terms of texturization, we’ve taken our original statement to another level and defined textures more [metallicising their signature appliqué work, for example]”
Pankaj and Nidhi, with a focus on wearability and weightlessness
everything is a statement
Personality is also bigger now. According to Gaurav Gupta, the pandemic has catalyzed individualistic wear and “the bride now wants to make an even bigger statement – be it in terms of colour, shape, form or embroidery. while she chooses a lightweight lehenga For her engagement, she’ll choose a larger-than-life, sculpted gown for herself music-Cocktail. Everything has become more glamorous, more dramatic, but with an enduring heart ”. The designer, who has always initiated a cultural dialogue with each outing, exploring all sides of love, has titled his latest collection ‘Universal Love’. The showcase tackled ageism by focusing on gay models, gay couples, plus-size models, and even mature love.
Meanwhile, Amit Agarwal, who is known for his emphasis on upcycling and repurposing textiles, takes a little personal attention to how brides want to feel on their important day. “Brides are no longer looking for embroidery or embellishments, but rather discreet designs. They see an overall sense of beauty and value in the product they are investing in, so it is not about the number of hours spent on embroidery, but on the thought that went behind creating the ensemble. The choice of dress should suit his personality,” he concluded.
India Couture Week 2021 will conclude on August 29, which will be concluded by Rahul Mishra.
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