Not long ago when filmmaker Vivek Agnihotri wrote an arrogant tweet proposing the idea of a vegetarian ‘wazwan’ – a traditional Kashmiri meat-based meal – social media erupted in spontaneous protests. What an oxymoron, people said. The Twitter storm ended in a day, but the idea that inspired the tweet is old and enduring, and deeply rooted in the country’s food politics.
The notion that the cuisine of Muslim Kashmiris – the ultimate embodiment of the “other” – is a soulful monolith, shaped primarily by cultural conditioning on both sides of the socio-religious-culinary boundary. This does not mean that Kashmiri food is predominantly vegetarian or that Wazwan is a non-vegetarian fantasy. The culinary magnificence of Wazwan must be truly experienced to be believed, but this multi-course meal does not make up for the culinary heritage of the valley.
Among the big surprises in the region’s diverse gastronomic canvas is street food, which is predominantly vegetarian, except for craft barbecue meats, which are vegetarian. These dishes have managed to hold their own despite the ubiquity of momos, golgappas and egg rolls, and as native street eats around the world speak of the region’s unique food heritage.
From Masala Tsout, the ultimate Kashmiri grab ‘n’ go meal consisting of Lavasa bread stuffed with mashed chickpeas, generously seasoned with spicy chutney, nadur monje (lotus stem fritters) or ger monje (deep-fried water chestnuts) ), and the Jhal Muri-remembrance masala wari muth (a variety of indigenous beans and wheat berries boiled with salt and spices and topped with fried onions) served in a paper cone. Turns out, there are tons of snacks to choose from. And like anywhere else in the world, these street food stalls are found in abundance around schools, colleges, offices and local temples.
- Method
- nadur monje
- Component
- 1/2 kg lotus stems
- 1 tbsp kashmiri red chilli powder
- 250 grams rice flour
- 2 cups water
- 2 tbsp cumin (optional)
- 350 ml mustard oil for frying
- salt to taste
- way
- 1. Peel and wash the lotus stem. Cut off stems, cutting each into 4 vertical pieces.
- 2. In a bowl, add salt, Kashmiri red chili powder, cumin and rice flour to the chopped lotus stalks.
- 3. Add water and mix until all the stems are well mixed with the rice flour batter.
- 4. Heat mustard oil in a deep frying pan.
- 5. Add the batter-coated lotus stalks and fry using a skimmer ladle.
- 6. When the fritters turn dark brown in color, take them out.
- 7. Serve hot with radish chutney.
For those with a sweet tooth, there are indulgences in the form of chewy basrak, a type of deep-fried hollow pastry coated with sugar syrup; And fried nuggets of shangram, maida, semolina, milk, sugar and ghee. While the latter is little known and is commonly enjoyed as a tea snack in households, Basrak is the dessert of choice for special occasions and, more recently, in plush bakeries with premium ingredients such as khoya and nuts. Recurrence has been found with ,
Today, many of these old-time favorites evoke fond nostalgia in the average cashmere. “Every day, on our way back from school, we all used to buy a fat masala tsout for ₹5 and also cut the wrap. Even now, I do not find any snack as tasty, healthy and easy to eat as Masala Tsaut,” says Bilal Ahmed Dar, a resident of Srinagar city. “Dishes like Masala Tsout and Basrak evoke nostalgia as well as a sense of pride in our Kashmiri identity,” says the 35-year-old businessman.
Despite the wide range of local snacks and their appeal among valley residents, these foods are yet to become mainstream. the Bhelpuri or Aloo Tikki. Kashmiris rarely speak about their indigenous cuisine, except for the mutton-dominated Wazwan feast.
Owais Ashraf, a 27-year-old law student and resident of Budgam, says, “We are a society driven by classism and this cannot be more evident than in our attitude towards our street food.” “Despite their popularity, these street eats are more or less confined to the markets next to temples or busy markets. Eating these ‘cheap’ things makes you look inferior. It is this deep collective reluctance to own our food heritage that has led to the loss of many street foods into oblivion,” he says.
need for awareness
Although the government has tried to promote Kashmiri street food as part of its tourism initiatives in recent times, residents say more proactive steps are needed. “Initially, street food can be included in the menu of government-run restaurants, and food kiosks can be set up at cultural festivals. The government may also invite food bloggers and influential people to sample and promote the street food of Kashmir. Food writers and critics should create literature on the food scene of the Valley to help create awareness,” says Mohammad. Azhar Abbas, 29, a Srinagar-based entrepreneur associated with the hospitality and tourism sector.
Interestingly, a large number of domestic tourists visiting Kashmir are completely dependent on ‘Vaishno Dhabas’, which are typical non-A/C restaurants of the Valley that serve all vegetarian North Indian food. In doing so, they miss out on the local gastronomic experiences that are an integral part of the trip. According to Abbas, private tour operators and travel agencies can make a difference by including street food tours in tourist itineraries.
With half a smile and a gleam of pride in his eyes, Dar says, “Wazwan we don’t eat everything, and of course we don’t have to be proud of it.”
The author is a full time ruminant and part time freelancer.
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