Subtle cuisine needs a champion. One of the positive results of the pandemic-induced lifestyle, especially in 2020, was the rise of home cooks and small cloud kitchens, which supported rare and in many cases dying cuisines. Anglo-Indian cuisine is one cuisine that has seen a decline during the 2010s. I still remember my conversation with Bridget White-Kumar in 2012 and again in 2021 after almost a decade. She has published several recipe books on cuisine and also manages a popular Anglo-Indian food blog. As one of the custodians of this unique cuisine, she feels comforted by the rising interest in the cuisine in the post-pandemic world, where platforms like Instagram have played a significant role in culinary trends.
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Just a month ago, Radisson Blu Hotel GRT Chennai unveiled Ministry of Chutney, set up as one of the first restaurants in India to showcase Anglo-Indian cuisine. It is close to St. Thomas Mount, one of the most historic churches in Chennai and is associated with St. Thomas the Apostle. The restaurant is also a tribute to the neighborhood that has long been one of the centers of Chennai’s Anglo-Indian community. Even as many Anglo-Indians have moved to Melbourne, the UK and Canada in large numbers, Anglo-Indian cuisine relies on colonial-era hotels such as the Taj Connemara or clubs such as the Madras Club and the Madras Gymkhana Club to provide the last From which the dishes can be demonstrated. couple of centuries. There is perhaps no dish that better represents Anglo-Indian cuisine than Mulligatawny Soup, which has references as far back as 1784.
Soup was probably not a thing in 18th century cuisine. There are quite a few legends about Mulligatawny soup. Most culinary experts agree that British colonial households in the erstwhile Madras Presidency may have served as culinary staff. Black Pepper Rasam As a remedy for the common cold or fever. This black pepper rasam eventually became Mulligatawny. The name of the soup is English and some might say a corrupted version of milgu thani (or pepper water). In many Anglo-Indian households, rasam was simply called pepper water.
The Mulligatawny Soup at the Madras Club remains my gold standard for this soup. I don’t think I’ve tasted a better version of this soup anywhere. Also called the ‘Ace of Clubs’, the Madras Club dates back to 1832 and is the second oldest surviving club in India after the Bengal Club, Calcutta. William Kitchener, a celebrity cook of the era (when you didn’t need Instagram to be famous), wrote in 1827 that Mulligatawny soup had become popular in British households, a few years before the Madras Club was founded. In 1805, one of the most famous food writers of the time, Maria Rundell, published A New System of Domestic Cookery, one of the most popular English cookbooks of the 19th century. The book included three versions of Mulligatawny Soup.
Executive Chef Kishore heads the kitchen at Radisson Blu Hotel GRT Chennai. Even as I tried some typical Anglo-Indian dishes like the mutton ball curry from the menu at Ministry of Chutneys, our conversation veered towards Mulligatawny soup. Chef Kishore describes it as a curried lentil soup. His version (see recipe) is cooked with vegetable stock, there is also a version with chicken and chicken stock. This soup is perfect for dinner and is quite simple to make:
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mulligatony soup recipe | How to Make Mulligatawny Soup
Recipe Courtesy – Kishor, Executive Chef, Radisson Blu Hotel GRT Chennai
What is Mulligatawny soup made of?
material:
Coconut oil – 25 ml
Small onions – 20 grams
Chopped ginger – 10 grams
Chopped garlic – 5 grams
Green chili – 2
Turmeric powder – 5 grams
Curry leaves – 5 grams
Whole coriander seeds – 15 grams
Whole cumin seeds – 15 grams
Madras curry powder – 10 grams
Apple – 40 grams
Ajwain – 15 grams
Potato – 40 grams
Lentils – 100 grams
Coriander – 35 grams
Coconut milk – 15 ml
Salt – 15 grams
Boiled rice – 5 grams
Way:
- Heat a pan with coconut oil, saute shallots, ginger, garlic, green chillies and curry leaves
- Add all the whole spices and curry powder and cook for 2 minutes.
- Add soaked dal, potato, apple and green coriander and fry.
- Add vegetable stock and simmer till all the vegetables and pulses are cooked.
- Blend the soup till it becomes a smooth puree and strain it through a sieve.
- Add coconut milk, boiled rice and lemon juice and mix. Garnish with fresh coriander leaves.
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About Ashwin RajagopalanI’m the proverbial Slashie – a content architect, author, speaker and cultural intelligence coach. School lunch boxes are usually the beginning of our culinary explorations. That curiosity has not diminished. It has grown even stronger as I have explored culinary cultures, street food and fine dining restaurants around the world. I have explored cultures and places through the medium of culinary motifs. I am equally passionate about writing on consumer tech and travel.