Burhan ud Din Khateeb, co-founder of Studio Kilab, is giving a contemporary touch to traditional Kashmiri crafts while creating livelihood opportunities for local artists.
Burhan ud Din Khateeb, co-founder of Studio Kilab, is giving a contemporary touch to traditional Kashmiri crafts while creating livelihood opportunities for local artists.
When Burhan ud Din Khatib completed his product design course at the National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad in 2015, unlike his classmates who were offered jobs in established companies, he decided to return to his home in Kashmir.
Burhan, who co-founded the Kashmir Innovation Lab (Studio Kilab) in Srinagar – a multidisciplinary design studio exploring the areas of craft and sustainable living – in 2018 with businessman Ishfaq Mir, says Indonesian designer Singgih Susilo Cartono persuades them to return home. “Pak Singgih, as we call him in Bahasa, graduated as a product designer from one of Indonesia’s finest design institutes, after which he returned to his village and began working with local artisans. He created sophisticated products that have been sold overseas, and has also received numerous international design awards,” Burhan says, adding that the story inspired him to “look back to his roots and think about how I could possibly go back.” I can go and use the design to make a positive change”.
Indian crafts in limelight: How designers, craftsmen work together to create edgy furnishings
Reopened in June 2022 after a pandemic-induced hiatus, Studio Kilab features everything from light fixtures and bags to apparel and home decor. The idea of the initiative, says Burhan, was to make Kashmiri crafts “open to innovations leading to new collaborations and new market opportunities that will create livelihood opportunities for artists”.
Burhan ud din Khateeb | photo credit: special arrangement
The designer explains how upon his return to Kashmir, he chose to work with papier-mâché for his final project. “I chose this because it uses recycled materials and can be molded into any shape. I have developed lamps, clocks and speakers.”
Burhan, who realized most of the craft projects in Kashmir lacked a holistic approach towards community development and craft revival, worked closely with Pak Singgih to understand how design-based community development works. “We worked on a new village model which focused on upliftment of farmers and skilling them by developing farmers markets, craft markets, homestays etc,” says the artist.
Four years later
In the past four years, a lot has developed and changed in the enterprise. “We started with exploration in several directions, even looking at permaculture practices, natural construction and sustainable living in general. We spent the first year including woodworking, willow wicker, metal, paper mache, etc. Also worked with many crafts,” says Burhan.
One of their hit products, he says, was the series of adjustable chicken coops. “We had a tradition of raising chickens in most of the houses, which is now vanishing. We worked with people who had an in-depth knowledge of chicken farming and created a series of chicken coops that became popular. The basic version is crafted in plywood and metal mesh that has been painted for outdoor use, and the other two variants are made of burnt wood.
Chicken Coop | photo credit: special arrangement
The team worked hard and made quick progress till August 2019, and when Article 370 was repealed, both lost touch with the team members and operations came to a complete halt. “We had no means of communication and it took several months for phones and 2G internet to be restored, and by then everything was scattered. I taught courses at NID and NIFT to keep up, and other team members did odd jobs for basic sustenance. Soon after came COVID-19 and it was another big blow,” he explains. As craftsmen struggled even for basic food, Burhan put together a group of papier-mâché artists during the pandemic and pulled in some orders.
Paper Mache Speakers | photo credit: special arrangement
is in process
Burhan says that one of the biggest reasons behind launching Studio Kilab was to put a contemporary spin on traditional crafts that are fading. “We realized that the traditional Kashmiri handicrafts market is quite stable and we need to evolve our products and processes to meet the current needs of the market. Young buyers are looking for the handmade story as well as utility in the craft,” he explains.
He, along with Ishfaq, has brought new process innovations and tools. “We are using 3D software to trace the new shape and we use it to make different cutouts in the plywood. It is inspired by certain processes of leather working.” He adds, it also helps in better quality control and consistency in production “which is a prerequisite in today’s market” Now, both with brands like Titan, Go Native We are partnering who want to get consistent and reliable production from Kashmir.
Clock made in Studio Kilab | photo credit: special arrangement
The recently launched Studio Kilab includes a range of chairs made with willow wicker and metal. Paper mache furniture and lighting collection is in progress. “The chairs, stools and table are inspired by the drapery. We are reinforcing the paper pulp with a metal mesh structure to give it the required strength and stability for furniture pieces,” says Burhan. There is also a range of hand-held products, including lights, bags and other accessories. As he looks forward to his new chapter, the designer says, “COVID-19 taught us to be strong even in our worst and we have come up with a new spirit and with the same goals of building a new, stronger craft. Restarted the studio with Industry in Kashmir. ,