(Bloomberg Opinion)-in Jeet, the top chefs are on the largest scale of professional tennis players: self-Heritage, praise of their rivals, grateful to their teachers. Two weeks ago, her restaurant Maida was declared number 1 at a function in Turin, Italy at 50 best restaurants in the world, Mitsuhru Tsumura told me, “There is a competition,” but when you finish, you shake hands, you have a beer. ”
Unlike tennis and other sports, however, the world of Haute dishes is not actually a universally recognized ranking system like tennis professionals and women’s tennis association. For those who point to the Michelin Guide, I would politely say that the French tire company offers ranking not rankings. The 50 best franchise definitely offers a great showcase for some of the world’s best dining installations, but it is inconsistent. Peru in this list has a lot of Latin American representation like maida, but rares North American luminaries. (One of my favorite, Atomics in New York City, ranked 12th this year, left six spots; Next American restaurant is not even in the top 50: Single thread in Heelsburg in California at 80 am.)
Once, the best chef in the world was that anyone was at the top of the French Pak universe. Paul Bokus – Those who died in 2018 and whose name is inherent in his original Leone in Bokus D’Or Cooking Competition – was probably the most excellent among these cook intermediaries of food. However, from the end of the-20th century to the beginning of the Kovid-19 epidemic for the almost three-post periods, two non-French cooks were the world’s most influential chefs. For the first half of the period, it was El Bully’s Ferran Adria in Spain. For the second half, it was Nama’s Rene Redzepy in Copenhagen. Their predominance is reflected in the history of 50 best: Adria has won the top position five times; Redzepi has done it four times. In 2019, the organization changed its rules, automatically all past and future top notes promoted the “Best” Hall of Fame of the best. This was a way to get new restaurants in the ranking, assimilating the old guard with apothosis.
The reform list was a humble way to refresh, but it unknowingly reflects a real change in the nature of the Pak world, influenced by the heritage of Adria and Redzepy. Let me tell you briefly through an anecdote.
During one dinner dinner, the Spanish chef, who is a friend, replaced me with one of the history questions of a terrible restaurant, which he likes to like a friend and enemy equally. Get the answer correct and you are golden. Do it wrong and you will get an hour’s lecture to set the right set.
“What is the biggest lesson of El Bully?” He asked me.
Fortunately, a few months ago, I heard the answer – from Renny Redzepy. Dane, whom I also consider a friend, worked briefly in Adria’s kitchen and has landed Spaniered on his birthday in Nama. And so, I reiterated what I learned: “El Bully’s most important rule is that there are no rules.” Adria approved and I did not get any lecture.
Adria separated French as world champions with her style-busting kitchen techniques; And by redzepi converting Nordic perceptions into haute cuisine further, all further showed that their local cuisine could also become global standard-marbler. You should not have French – or Spanish or Danish.
Today, I think nominations for the best restaurants in various American regions between James Beard Awards and Nomination were Filipino, Tamil, Thai, Korean, Mexican, Vietnamese and a hosts of other non-European cuisine. It is also inspiring that one of the most attractive chefs at the Turin function was Pichaya Soontorniakiz and its restaurant Potong in Bangkok. The highest number of London restaurants in 15, West African cooking have their roots. A quick round of interview with top claimants for 50 best revealed a consensus to recipes with global effects: Mexican, Chinese, Korean and Indian. This is difficult to consider the parameters that will allow you to assess whether Hong Kong Chef’s Woque Hei Technology is better than the roasted carmelization of a top restaurant in Mumbai.
Even when all this decentralization continues, the world of chefs seems to be inhabited in two semi-ideological camps. Or perhaps the word is egoistic. 50 The best annual stop of the best Adria appears; His disciples have followed. Meanwhile, a more vague but the impressive group gather around the Redzepy, which is not only taking Nama all over the world (Kyoto; Los Angeles last year) but revived the MAD seminar this year too, which was famous for giving voice to big and deep ideas in the 2010s. Both men continue their rights and personality over the universe without cooking without the center of gravity.
But the chef still likes the award – especially people with “best” labels. I started this column with tennis players. If you believe that they are privately composed as their victorious personality on the podium, then, you are not watching enough matches with athletes, growing, growing and sculpting. Chefs share similar passions and instincts. In 50 Best this year, a popular hope was that the number 1 place would go to Spain’s Bhatter Arginzoni’s Asador Atexbury in the country. With its celebration of Peru’s Japanese immigrant Nikki cuisine, Maida has been doing its work in the list over the years, but with its innovative grilling, Etxberri is one of the world’s most influential restaurants for a long time. Its chef is also famous and competitive. Therefore, despite his smiling performance in Turin, he was probably unhappy that the restaurant came to number 2. A dining friend – who did not name because he knows a much more sensitive chef – a pinch that “Bitter is probably so crazy in snub that he is better to improve everyone.”
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Howard Chua-Eon is a columnist for Bloomberg Rai that cover culture and business. He first served as an international editor of Bloomberg Opinion and is a former news director in Time magazine.
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